Eirik
18-05-2000, 03:25 PM
The current 33bhp limit for the first two years is absolutely brilliant, because it gives the novice a chance to learn how to ride before he or she scares themselves silly with 180hp monsters. So, I'll leave them to themselves. But what if you either are old enough to avoid the limitation, or already past it - what should you buy then?
First, sit down and ask yourself what's important to you. Here are a few leads:
1) Do you plan to use it for daily transport? If yes, and since we all live in a wet climate, go for a bike with shaft or belt final drive. You'll save a fortune in time and money. If no, look further down.
2) Is overall running and purchase cost important? If yes, avoid bikes that are known to be problematic or overly complex to service. Also, avoid rare bikes. A workhorse is your best bet. If you said yes to #1, Honda CX500, Kawasaki GT550, Yamaha XJ650 Seca, Suzuki GS650 Katana are all examples of brill workhorses that will run for a long long time with little trouble, and if they do become terminally ill, cheap spares are all over the place. If you are willing to pay extra for fuel and tyres in order to get more power, the Honda GL1100, Yamaha XS1100, Suzuki GS850/1000/1100G, Kawasaki Z1000/1100 Shaft will all be reliable stablemates. If no, buy what you please.
3) Are looks important? If so, you are most likely a candidate for a cruiser. Still, having some reliability is nice, which actually most have. These bikes are less stressed than sportier bikes, and usually ridden gentler as well. Find something you like and can afford to pay for. The worst bikes are those fitted with V4 engines, they are costly to run and doesn't offer the right beat for a cruiser.
4) Is handling important? Then any modern sportbike (post 1990) will be able to satisfy most of you, despite many complaining about how bad their 1998 model compare to the freshest version. Fact is that they all handle better than what is possible to legally use on public roads, and if you are a good rider you can take a bone stock 70hp standard motorcycle and leave the 180hp posers far behind on any road that isn't arrow straight. The more their bikes have been modified with costly stuff, the worse they are to ride usually.
5) Do you want the best bike in the world? Sorry, you can't have it! What is best differ from your needs. But here is my personal list of "best":
Missile: Kawasaki ZX-12R
Race replica: Honda CBR929RR
Cruiser: Any current Harely twin cam
Touring: Honda ST1100
Sport tourer: Triumph Sprint ST
Standard: Honda CB1300
Retro: Kawasaki W650
Commuter: Honda NTV650
Enduro: Honda XL650V Transalp
Tomorrow, my list will look different because my lust will be different ;)
5) Do you want a Jack-of-all-trades bike? Then you are like me. I want brilliant handling, plenty of grunt, low weight, great comfort, stunning looks, long range, simple maintenance, cheap to buy and low running cost. This bike hasn't been made. The closest thing is the NTV650, which is about as bland as they come. Another option is to make your own. Handling is the worst part. Since I don't like chain drive very much (most of my rides are between 100 and 300 miles per day, often for several days, which makes at least daily chain lubrication a must and a pain), getting a good-handling bike is not easy. The best is the XJ900 Diversion, but it's nearly as bland as the NTV. A decent beast to start out with, is the GSX1100G. It can be made into an acceptable handler with some suspension mods. However, these are out of my budget. Which leaves these:
Yamaha XS1100. Heavy brute with slow, cumbersome handling. Runs on narrow rims which makes it hard to get good grip from the tyres, and the fork is rather spindly for its size. But fitted with a fork brace and progressive fork springs, or even better - grafting on a modern front end, together with good quality suspension, it can be made into a decent handler. Engine takes all sorts of abuse, and delivers massive power.
Kawasaki KZ1000ST. Rough running engine in a softly suspended chassis. But the fork is very rigid and only needs better springs and thicker oil to work acceptably well. A set of Koni rear shocks completes the chassis modes required for sane, brisk riding. Engine is also tough, but not as much as the XS.
Suzuki GS850/1000/1100G. They are to me very bland, but long-lived beasts that handle better than the above and even comes with acceptable stock suspension. Only malady is weak electrics, but cures are available so it should only happen once, if ever.
Honda has nothing to offer unless you are willing to live with chain drive.
On a final note, no matter how much one modifies the chassis on these dinosaurs, neither can keep up with a modern 600cc sport bike ridden by an equally capable rider. But on a trip from let's say Dublin to Jerusalem, the one mounted on the old thing will arrive sooner and more relaxed and knowing that the trip and the bike combined cost much less than the 600 alone.
First, sit down and ask yourself what's important to you. Here are a few leads:
1) Do you plan to use it for daily transport? If yes, and since we all live in a wet climate, go for a bike with shaft or belt final drive. You'll save a fortune in time and money. If no, look further down.
2) Is overall running and purchase cost important? If yes, avoid bikes that are known to be problematic or overly complex to service. Also, avoid rare bikes. A workhorse is your best bet. If you said yes to #1, Honda CX500, Kawasaki GT550, Yamaha XJ650 Seca, Suzuki GS650 Katana are all examples of brill workhorses that will run for a long long time with little trouble, and if they do become terminally ill, cheap spares are all over the place. If you are willing to pay extra for fuel and tyres in order to get more power, the Honda GL1100, Yamaha XS1100, Suzuki GS850/1000/1100G, Kawasaki Z1000/1100 Shaft will all be reliable stablemates. If no, buy what you please.
3) Are looks important? If so, you are most likely a candidate for a cruiser. Still, having some reliability is nice, which actually most have. These bikes are less stressed than sportier bikes, and usually ridden gentler as well. Find something you like and can afford to pay for. The worst bikes are those fitted with V4 engines, they are costly to run and doesn't offer the right beat for a cruiser.
4) Is handling important? Then any modern sportbike (post 1990) will be able to satisfy most of you, despite many complaining about how bad their 1998 model compare to the freshest version. Fact is that they all handle better than what is possible to legally use on public roads, and if you are a good rider you can take a bone stock 70hp standard motorcycle and leave the 180hp posers far behind on any road that isn't arrow straight. The more their bikes have been modified with costly stuff, the worse they are to ride usually.
5) Do you want the best bike in the world? Sorry, you can't have it! What is best differ from your needs. But here is my personal list of "best":
Missile: Kawasaki ZX-12R
Race replica: Honda CBR929RR
Cruiser: Any current Harely twin cam
Touring: Honda ST1100
Sport tourer: Triumph Sprint ST
Standard: Honda CB1300
Retro: Kawasaki W650
Commuter: Honda NTV650
Enduro: Honda XL650V Transalp
Tomorrow, my list will look different because my lust will be different ;)
5) Do you want a Jack-of-all-trades bike? Then you are like me. I want brilliant handling, plenty of grunt, low weight, great comfort, stunning looks, long range, simple maintenance, cheap to buy and low running cost. This bike hasn't been made. The closest thing is the NTV650, which is about as bland as they come. Another option is to make your own. Handling is the worst part. Since I don't like chain drive very much (most of my rides are between 100 and 300 miles per day, often for several days, which makes at least daily chain lubrication a must and a pain), getting a good-handling bike is not easy. The best is the XJ900 Diversion, but it's nearly as bland as the NTV. A decent beast to start out with, is the GSX1100G. It can be made into an acceptable handler with some suspension mods. However, these are out of my budget. Which leaves these:
Yamaha XS1100. Heavy brute with slow, cumbersome handling. Runs on narrow rims which makes it hard to get good grip from the tyres, and the fork is rather spindly for its size. But fitted with a fork brace and progressive fork springs, or even better - grafting on a modern front end, together with good quality suspension, it can be made into a decent handler. Engine takes all sorts of abuse, and delivers massive power.
Kawasaki KZ1000ST. Rough running engine in a softly suspended chassis. But the fork is very rigid and only needs better springs and thicker oil to work acceptably well. A set of Koni rear shocks completes the chassis modes required for sane, brisk riding. Engine is also tough, but not as much as the XS.
Suzuki GS850/1000/1100G. They are to me very bland, but long-lived beasts that handle better than the above and even comes with acceptable stock suspension. Only malady is weak electrics, but cures are available so it should only happen once, if ever.
Honda has nothing to offer unless you are willing to live with chain drive.
On a final note, no matter how much one modifies the chassis on these dinosaurs, neither can keep up with a modern 600cc sport bike ridden by an equally capable rider. But on a trip from let's say Dublin to Jerusalem, the one mounted on the old thing will arrive sooner and more relaxed and knowing that the trip and the bike combined cost much less than the 600 alone.